folklore – Scottish Adventures

Shetland and Orkney had been domain of the Vikings from around 850 AD. In 1469 however, Princess Margaret, the 13 year old daughter of King Christian I of Denmark & Norway, was betrothed to King James III of Scotland. Her dowry was set at 6000 Guilders yet King Christian could only come up with 2000 Guilders therefore Shetland & Orkney were offered as security for the rest. The outstanding amount was never realised, so, on 20th February 1472 via an act of Parliament, both Orkney and Shetland officially became part of Scotland. Gradually Scottish culture spread throughout the islands but Norse customs and the Old Norse language have remained routed in the identity of the islanders over these many centuries. While Norse words and names are still evident the most discernible characteristic of Viking heritage are the Up Helly Aa events held throughout the Shetland archipelago from January to March every year.

The Up Helly Aa tradition began in the mid 19th century and gradually evolved into the annual festival we witness today, with many aspects still echoing the Viking celebrations of 150 years ago. Islanders are very much involved in the event and need to have been resident in Shetland for at least five years before they can even participate in a squad and the procession. To be Guizer Jarl, a member must have served at least 16 years on the committee.

The building of the Viking Galley, making Viking costumes and the thousands of torches are done by volunteers and the Jarl Squad, working tirelessly throughout the winter until everything is ready. The reveal of the Galley and the Jarl Squad is kept a secret until the big day when they step out for the first time to start the Up Helly Aa morning parades.

The evening procession incorporates 46 additional squads dressed in a variety of themes with performances choreographed in preparation for the after event parties. When darkness has descended, the squads assemble at 7pm to the sound of a Pipe Band after which the Guizer Jarl and his squad are ushered forward to the head of the parade with their Viking Longboat in tow, accompanied by the local Brass Band. All other squads then follow, marching behind them and through the town until finally reaching the Playing Field, circling the perimeter before heading to the Burning Site where the magnificent replica longboat is torched. This burning of the Galley signifies the end of the Yule period, in legendary Viking style, of course!

The festivities then move to many community halls where locals and visitors party through the night, dancing to Scottish Country Music and lapping up the entertainment provided by the guizer squads.

This celebration of Shetland’s Viking heritage is a festival unlike any other in the World. It truly is a community event with Lerwegians exuding immense pride in their uniquely special day and we found everyone to be incredibly welcoming and friendly. If you have a list of adventures you’d like to fulfil, I can highly recommend Up Helly Aa is on it!

Capturing the imaginations of those who visit her, the alluring Mermaid of the North perches on ‘Clach Dubh’ (Black Rock) by the village of Balintore, Easter Ross. Coastal fables tell of a Mermaid who was captured by a cunning fisherman who hid her tail. Years later, after bearing his children, she found her tail and escaped back to sea, returning regularly to the shore, bringing fish for her hungry family.

Donal had left his boat to gather gulls’ eggs, up high on the cliff, when he noticed a beautiful, long haired woman sitting, singing on a rock below. He crept down for a closer look and upon realising she was a mermaid, grasped hold of her left hand, which it was said was the way to capture a mermaid as all of her strength is in her right hand. She begged him to let her go but being a lonely bachelor, he hid her tail so she couldn’t return to the sea and resolved to make her his wife. The Mermaid gradually settled into life with Donal, had several children with him and made a life for herself, caring for her family. One day though, while she was clearing away some dusty old things in the loft, she came upon her tail. She held it close and hurriedly ran back to the sea lest anyone stop her. Donal would often row out to sea, calling her, begging her to come home but she never returned to him. Everyday, however, her children would visit the shore where she would bring them fish to take home.

Millie & I always stop by, sometimes bringing friends, to visit The Mermaid of the North on our trips around the North Coast. She sits on her rock against the dramatic backdrop of the Moray Firth, where there are superb views of the coastline.