Dunino Den – Fife

As I wandered into the grove beyond Dunino church, sunlight danced through the leaves of the trees surrounding Dunino Den, obscuring my vision. With a sudden fluttering of birds around me, I felt that there was indeed a supernatural atmosphere about this place. It’s said to be haunted by fairies, steeped in Celtic legend and a site of pagan worship that continues to attract pilgrims today. The fabled ‘Altar Stone’ sits up high, overlooking a burn running through the narrow gully below. A small, circular well worn into the rock here is rumoured to have once been used by Druids in their rituals of human sacrifice. Near the well, is a carved footprint, suggesting this was once a place of great significance. Carved footprints were used in Neolithic times, during inauguration rituals where our ancient chieftains would place a foot in such grooves and swear oaths to protect their people and lands. This would suggest that kings from our pre-history might once have been crowned here.

Steps lead down into the Den, to a Wheelhead Cross, ancient symbols and a mysterious face all carved in to the rock. Here, modern day worshippers now leave offerings, believing this place to be a portal to the otherworld. Ribbons flutter from the trees, messages for loved ones, since departed, are stuffed into cracks in the rock and coins left in crevices. Beware! It’s said that removing anything from this place will bring bad luck.

Legend tells of a visitor who came to Dunino Church and having followed the path through the woods to the altar stone, he saw an enchanting hamlet on the other side of the gully. The cottages were thatched and swathed in rambling roses. An old man in knee breeches and a woman in a long gown, stood at the entrance to one of the houses while a blacksmith leant on his hammer outside his workshop. A year later, the visitor returned, this time with a companion to whom he had recounted his story. They arrived at the Den to find the cottages gone and nothing but trees on the other side. It is said that a collection of cottages and a smithy once existed on the land there, but they had been demolished long, long ago….

“Come Faeries, take me out of this dull world, for I would ride with you upon the wind and dance upon the mountains like a flame!” – W B Yeats

Mermaid of the North

Capturing the imaginations of those who visit her, the alluring Mermaid of the North perches on ‘Clach Dubh’ (Black Rock) by the village of Balintore, Easter Ross. Coastal fables tell of a Mermaid who was captured by a cunning fisherman who hid her tail. Years later, after bearing his children, she found her tail and escaped back to sea, returning regularly to the shore, bringing fish for her hungry family.

Donal had left his boat to gather gulls’ eggs, up high on the cliff, when he noticed a beautiful, long haired woman sitting, singing on a rock below. He crept down for a closer look and upon realising she was a mermaid, grasped hold of her left hand, which it was said was the way to capture a mermaid as all of her strength is in her right hand. She begged him to let her go but being a lonely bachelor, he hid her tail so she couldn’t return to the sea and resolved to make her his wife. The Mermaid gradually settled into life with Donal, had several children with him and made a life for herself, caring for her family. One day though, while she was clearing away some dusty old things in the loft, she came upon her tail. She held it close and hurriedly ran back to the sea lest anyone stop her. Donal would often row out to sea, calling her, begging her to come home but she never returned to him. Everyday, however, her children would visit the shore where she would bring them fish to take home.

Millie & I always stop by, sometimes bringing friends, to visit The Mermaid of the North on our trips around the North Coast. She sits on her rock against the dramatic backdrop of the Moray Firth, where there are superb views of the coastline.

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