The Aberlermno Stones – Forfar

I was excited to come here on this wet and incredibly windy day to encounter a trio of remarkable remnants from our ancient past. AND what a way to begin my journey into Scotland’s pre-history! The Picts ruled much of Scotland during the Dark Ages, had a strong and distinct culture yet little is known of these warring and artistic people. Along the roadside in the village of Aberlermno are three magnificent Pictish stones bearing symbols from three graphic styles as their society evolved from Pagan to Christian worship.

The Serpent Stone – cup marks on the left side of this stone suggest that it was most probably a neolithic standing stone, reused by the Picts. This is a Class I stone, standing nearly 2m tall with carvings deeply incised and still clearly visible.

Class I stones – are natural rocks or boulders bearing incised Pictish symbols dating from the early bronze age. They bear no Christian images therefore likely carved before the arrival of St Columba and adoption of Christianity into Pictish culture.

This stone’s markings show a serpent above a double-disc and z-rod then a mirror and comb.

Serpent – throughout the World snakes have been associated with magic, death and rebirth, sex and healing.

Double Disk – perhaps represents two worlds: the here-and-now and the otherworld, life and death. Its has also been suggested that it signifies the marriage of two families. Z-Rod – this could represent someone whose spear was broken – dead – or who was a breaker of spears – a great warrior

Mirror & Comb – although on some stones the mirror is shown alone it is frequently thought to represent a woman. In the ancient world it has been used elsewhere as a symbol of the mother Goddess. Mirrors and combs also have magical connotations, appearing in folklore as enchanted objects

Whatever the meaning behind the symbols on this wonderful stone, they had a clear significance for the people who made them. The incisions are carbon dated at around 1500 years ago, elements of a lost hieroglyphical system used by the Picts for up to four centuries. They could represent a person of status within their community, mark a tribal location or make known tribal allegiance.

The Crescent Stone – only faint traces of a crescent marking and mirror remain on this Picitsh standing stone but nevertheless it still stands impressively alongside its neighbouring monoliths.

Crescent – having lunar associations, this could also represent the firmament. Often crossed with a v-rod (broken arrow), it’s one of the most common Pictish symbols.

Over these many centuries, such ancient monuments have eroded so that their stories are now completely lost to the wind and rain.

The Roadside Cross – standing in its original socket for over 1200 years, this stone is a Class II stone and testament to flourishing Christianity which had turned the Picts away from their Pagan religion within a mere 200 years of introduction. This impressive cross-slab was a declaration to the Glory of God.

Class II stones – these are shaped stones, carved in relief and almost always cross-slabs with Christian imagery and some traditional Pictish symbols.

The front of this stone has been deciphered as follows: Within a massive wheelhead cross there are Five circular bosses on the cross – possibly representing the wounds of Christ. Mourning Angels – holding gospel books.

The rear side: the top displays a Pictish symbol, the V-Rod – possibly the rising and setting of the sun/moon, then, below it there’s a Double Disk and Z-Rod – more elabourate than on the Serpent stone. A ceremonial hunt – with trumpeters below prominent Pictish symbols. David saving his flock from a lion – perhaps representing Christ the saviour. A centaur gathering medicinal plants – representing Christ the healer

These stones truly are incredible and although sitting by the roadside, each has been situated sympathetically in a small walled area to allow them to be viewed up-close. Grab your raincoat and go…!

22nd Mar 2025 0

Dunino Den – Fife

As I wandered into the grove beyond Dunino church, sunlight danced through the leaves of the trees surrounding Dunino Den, obscuring my vision. With a sudden fluttering of birds around me, I felt that there was indeed a supernatural atmosphere about this place. It’s said to be haunted by fairies, steeped in Celtic legend and a site of pagan worship that continues to attract pilgrims today. The fabled ‘Altar Stone’ sits up high, overlooking a burn running through the narrow gully below. A small, circular well worn into the rock here is rumoured to have once been used by Druids in their rituals of human sacrifice. Near the well, is a carved footprint, suggesting this was once a place of great significance. Carved footprints were used in Neolithic times, during inauguration rituals where our ancient chieftains would place a foot in such grooves and swear oaths to protect their people and lands. This would suggest that kings from our pre-history might once have been crowned here.

Steps lead down into the Den, to a Wheelhead Cross, ancient symbols and a mysterious face all carved in to the rock. Here, modern day worshippers now leave offerings, believing this place to be a portal to the otherworld. Ribbons flutter from the trees, messages for loved ones, since departed, are stuffed into cracks in the rock and coins left in crevices. Beware! It’s said that removing anything from this place will bring bad luck.

Legend tells of a visitor who came to Dunino Church and having followed the path through the woods to the altar stone, he saw an enchanting hamlet on the other side of the gully. The cottages were thatched and swathed in rambling roses. An old man in knee breeches and a woman in a long gown, stood at the entrance to one of the houses while a blacksmith leant on his hammer outside his workshop. A year later, the visitor returned, this time with a companion to whom he had recounted his story. They arrived at the Den to find the cottages gone and nothing but trees on the other side. It is said that a collection of cottages and a smithy once existed on the land there, but they had been demolished long, long ago….

“Come Faeries, take me out of this dull world, for I would ride with you upon the wind and dance upon the mountains like a flame!” – W B Yeats

19th Mar 2025 0

Dogton Stone, Cluny – Fife

In a wheat field at Dogton Farm, there stands a long forgotten Pictish Stone. Enclosed in iron fencing for protection, it’s a 9th century Class III, free-standing Pictish Cross which seems to have lost its head and arms centuries ago. An etching of the stone was done in 1772 by Thomas Pennant (1726-1798, Welsh naturalist, traveller, writer & antiquarian). Then, another sketch from 1832 by James Skene (1775-1864, Scottish lawyer and amateur artist, best known as a close friend of Sir Walter Scott), mentions that the stone was “at Dogton, 4 miles from Kirkcaldy, erected where the Danes were defeated by Constantine 2 of Scotland in the year 874”. Both illustrate the Dogton stone in its damaged condition.

The stone stands around 4ft 10ins (1.5M) and had originally been sculpted in relief on all four sides, however, the weather over these many centuries has taken its toll. On the West facing side, intricate knotwork, typical of Celtic artistry can still be clearly seen. Stretching up the South side of the stone, two entwined, snapping serpents are depicted. It’s said that in Celtic culture, serpents were sacred to high-ranking members of society, associated with rebirth, eternal life and healing. The East face shows what once was a battle scene, with a horseman still quite visible. Unfortunately the North face of the Dogton stone is so very weathered, it’s not longer discernible.

What an incredible sense of awe I felt, to have come across such a remarkable piece of ancient history and it set my mind rambling with thoughts of the people who created this and why it would have been erected here. It’s possible the stone could have been erected to specifically mark the victory in battle of Constantine 2nd over the Danes, or, perhaps, simply as a decorative way marker for pilgrims heading towards religious sites such as nearby Scotlandwell, Lindores Abbey, Balmerino Abbey, or St Andrews where holy relics of Saint Andrew were displayed in the Cathedral there. Oh to be a time traveller….

NB: Class III Pictish Stones – these originate from the 8th or 9th century and feature none of the unique Pitctish symbols of earlier stones, typically free-standing crosses which include Christian imagery.

8th Mar 2025 0

Balfarg Henge & Balbirnie Stone Circle, Fife

Located on the outskirts of Glenrothes in Fife, Balfarg Henge is now incongruously surrounded by a modern housing estate. Encircled by hills, this was once a revered landscape and main centre of ritual, sacred to generations of prehistoric people. While there are only two of its original stones remaining and sadly, a rather underwhelming place to visit these days than other Neolithic monuments in Scotland, (such as Calanais in Lewis or Ring of Brogdar in Orkney) 4,000 years ago Balfarg Henge would have been equally as evocative. The ceremonial, circular enclosure, measuring 60 metres across (known as a ‘henge’), was formed by a bank with an internal ditch and encompassed temples for the living and graves for the dead. Evidence of ritual feasting, sacrifice, smashed pottery and human burial were found here and at the centre of the henge, lying level with the grass, is a massive stone slab which covers a stone cist, containing the remains of a teenage boy from that period.

The nearby Balbirnie Stone Circle was excavated then moved when the current main road was widened. It originally had been only 300 metres from Balfarg Henge, in a much more prominent position with the circle facing the midsummer sun rising over Clatto Hill. It had a hearth at its centre, perhaps for lighting up night-time ceremonies. Communities would have gathered here to celebrate seasonal festivals and to honour their ancestors. Balbirnie became a place of burial where the cremated bones of women and children were placed in stone cists, along with precious objects.

Neolithic peoples cleared woodland and introduced agriculture to Fife around 6,000 years ago. They were also hunter-gatherers, moving from place to place throughout the year as seasons changed. The efforts made by these people to build shared sacred sites like Balfarg and Balbirnie affirms that their society was sophisticated and organised.

16th Feb 2025 0

Queen’s Well, Glen Esk

A 4mile (6.4Km) roundtrip ‘stroll’ will take you from Invermark to the magnificent ‘Queen’s Well’ in Glen Esk. The route is strewn with boulders so presents a bit of a challenge in places, however, certainly worth the effort as the scenery is spectacular, especially when the heather is in full bloom.

This granite crown shaped monument sits over a natural spring originally known as the ‘White Well’. The stone well was erected by Lord Dalhousie in 1861 to commemorate a visit made there by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert earlier that year. During their annual sojourn at Balmoral, the Royal couple and their entourage rode the 15mile (24Km) trip on ponies from Bridge of Muik, stopping for a picnic along the way. They met with Lord Dalhousie at the White Well where they refreshed themselves with the spring water before heading off to spend the night at his home, Invermark Lodge.

The inscription at the monument reads – ‘Her Majesty, Queen Victoria, and his Royal Highness the Prince Consort, visited this well and drank of its refreshing waters, on the 20th September, 1861, the year of Her Majesty’s great sorrow.’

Albert died on 14th December 1861, aged 42 years, having been diagnosed with typhoid fever.

2nd Feb 2025