Dunfallandy Stone – Pitlochry, Perthshire

I’d heard about this magnificent stone so finally took the time to stop off to search for it while heading to the Cairngorms. Once you get into Pitlochry it’s actually quite well signposted however there isn’t really much parking nearby so I left the van in town and Millie and I enjoyed a stroll (for the most part) out past the caravan park and along the road to get there. It’s quite a narrow road without pavement and the drivers of a couple of Range Rovers that passed me seemed to think they were in a formula 1 race so Millie and I were forced into the ditch a couple of times. Do take care.

The Dunfallandy Stone is an elaborately carved Class II Pictish stone which is more than 1200 years old. To protect it from the elements, it has been enclosed in a shelter but disappointingly, reflections on the glass make it difficult to see and photograph. Non reflective glass would certainly have been a better option here.

Reminiscent of intricately decorated Pictish jewellery, this cross-slab once marked a place of prayer and is set in its original location, prominently on a mound known to have been topped by a chapel, where it would have been seen by all that passed by. The relief carvings show the sophistication of Pictish culture, mixing influences from across the British Isles and Europe with local traditions and belief. Typically, the body of the Cross is decorated with the familiar intricate Pictish knotwork.

It’s thought that stones such as this one were once coloured, using mineral pigments such as yellow ochre, red lead and green verdigris, emulating the style of metalwork and religious manuscripts of the time. The images on the front depict Pictish monsters (considered agents of God’s wrath), a stag, Jonah being swallowed by a whale and angels. On the reverse side, depictions are of enthroned bishops or saints facing each other, a rider representing perhaps the patron who commissioned the stone then at the bottom are Iron-working tools (tongs, hammer, crucible). There are also several distinctively Pictish symbols on the reverse here, the Pictish monster, double disk and the crescent with v-rod however their true meaning is now lost to us.

Dunfallandy Stone now shares the mound with burial enclosures surrounded by railings. One of these is the site of the impressive tomb of Lieutenant-General Archibald Fergusson of Dunfallandy who died in 1834. This, I assume would be why the location was referred to as Mausoleum Mound from the 1860’s.

Ardestie Earth House – Angus

The remains of Ardestie Iron Age souterrain was uncovered during stone clearance in 1949. Structures like this formed part of many Iron Age farming settlements north of the River Forth, sometime between 2,800 & 1,500 years ago. Life here centred around farming so the use of these souterrains may have been for storing grain and other goods however they were vulnerable to dampness and vermin. This souterrain was adapted after it was built, by putting in a stone lined drain to combat its poor drainage.

Souterrains such as this were skilfully built and often had cup marks and symbols on some of the stones. It could possibly mean that they also had a ritual function such as for rites of passage.

If you have an interest in these ‘earth houses’, you can visit others nearby at Carlungie and Tealing, then further north Culsh Earth House by Tarland in Aberdeenshire

The Aberlermno Stones – Forfar

I was excited to come here on this wet and incredibly windy day to encounter a trio of remarkable remnants from our ancient past.  AND what a way to begin my journey into Scotland’s pre-history!  The Picts ruled much of Scotland during the Dark Ages, had a strong and distinct culture yet little is known of these warring and artistic people.  Along the roadside in the village of Aberlermno are three magnificent Pictish stones bearing symbols from three graphic styles as their society evolved from Pagan to Christian worship.

The Serpent Stone – cup marks on the left side of this stone suggest that it was most probably a neolithic standing stone, reused by the Picts. This is a Class I stone, standing nearly 2m tall with carvings deeply incised and still clearly visible.

Class I stones – are natural rocks or boulders bearing incised Pictish symbols dating from the early bronze age. They bear no Christian images therefore likely carved before the arrival of St Columba and adoption of Christianity into Pictish culture.

This stone’s markings show a serpent above a double-disc and z-rod then a mirror and comb.

Serpent – throughout the World snakes have been associated with magic, death and rebirth, sex and healing.

Double Disk – perhaps represents two worlds: the here-and-now and the otherworld, life and death.  Its has also been suggested that it signifies the marriage of two families. Z-Rod – this could represent someone whose spear was broken – dead – or who was a breaker of spears – a great warrior

Mirror & Comb – although on some stones the mirror is shown alone it is frequently thought to represent a woman. In the ancient world it has been used elsewhere as a symbol of the mother Goddess.  Mirrors and combs also have magical connotations, appearing in folklore as enchanted objects

Whatever the meaning behind the symbols on this wonderful stone, they had a clear significance for the people who made them.  The incisions are carbon dated at around 1500 years ago, elements of a lost hieroglyphical system used by the Picts for up to four centuries.  They could represent a person of status within their community, mark a tribal location or make known tribal allegiance.

The Crescent Stone – only faint traces of a crescent marking and mirror remain on this Picitsh standing stone but nevertheless it still stands impressively alongside its neighbouring monoliths.   

Crescent – having lunar associations, this could also represent the firmament. Often crossed with a v-rod (broken arrow), it’s one of the most common Pictish symbols.

Over these many centuries, such ancient monuments have eroded so that their stories are now completely lost to the wind and rain.

The Roadside Cross – standing in its original socket for over 1200 years, this stone is a Class II stone and testament to flourishing Christianity which had turned the Picts away from their Pagan religion within a mere 200 years of introduction.  This impressive cross-slab was a declaration to the Glory of God. 

Class II stones – these are shaped stones, carved in relief and almost always cross-slabs with Christian imagery and some traditional Pictish symbols.

The front of this stone has been deciphered as follows:  Within a massive wheelhead cross there are Five circular bosses on the cross – possibly representing the wounds of Christ.  Mourning Angels – holding gospel books.

The rear side:  the top displays a Pictish symbol, the V-Rod – possibly the rising and setting of the sun/moon, then, below it there’s a Double Disk and Z-Rod – more elabourate than on the Serpent stone.  A ceremonial hunt – with trumpeters below prominent Pictish symbols. David saving his flock from a lion – perhaps representing Christ the saviour. A centaur gathering medicinal plants – representing Christ the healer                                    

These stones truly are incredible and although sitting by the roadside, each has been situated sympathetically in a small walled area to allow them to be viewed up-close.  Grab your raincoat and go…!

Dunino Den – Fife

As I wandered into the grove beyond Dunino church, sunlight danced through the leaves of the trees surrounding Dunino Den, obscuring my vision. With a sudden fluttering of birds around me, I felt that there was indeed a supernatural atmosphere about this place. It’s said to be haunted by fairies, steeped in Celtic legend and a site of pagan worship that continues to attract pilgrims today. The fabled ‘Altar Stone’ sits up high, overlooking a burn running through the narrow gully below. A small, circular well worn into the rock here is rumoured to have once been used by Druids in their rituals of human sacrifice. Near the well, is a carved footprint, suggesting this was once a place of great significance. Carved footprints were used in Neolithic times, during inauguration rituals where our ancient chieftains would place a foot in such grooves and swear oaths to protect their people and lands. This would suggest that kings from our pre-history might once have been crowned here.

Steps lead down into the Den, to a Wheelhead Cross, ancient symbols and a mysterious face all carved in to the rock. Here, modern day worshippers now leave offerings, believing this place to be a portal to the otherworld. Ribbons flutter from the trees, messages for loved ones, since departed, are stuffed into cracks in the rock and coins left in crevices. Beware! It’s said that removing anything from this place will bring bad luck.

Legend tells of a visitor who came to Dunino Church and having followed the path through the woods to the altar stone, he saw an enchanting hamlet on the other side of the gully. The cottages were thatched and swathed in rambling roses. An old man in knee breeches and a woman in a long gown, stood at the entrance to one of the houses while a blacksmith leant on his hammer outside his workshop. A year later, the visitor returned, this time with a companion to whom he had recounted his story. They arrived at the Den to find the cottages gone and nothing but trees on the other side. It is said that a collection of cottages and a smithy once existed on the land there, but they had been demolished long, long ago….

“Come Faeries, take me out of this dull world, for I would ride with you upon the wind and dance upon the mountains like a flame!” – W B Yeats

Standing Stones of Lundin, Lundin Links – Fife

Where once where there were four, now there remains three very impressive, irregularly shaped, red sandstone megaliths. They are thought to have originally been part of the 16M circumference of a complete stone circle from the bronze age, 2000 – 1500BC. It’s said that the missing fourth stone had been broken by treasure hunters, the base remaining with the broken upper lying nearby until 1792. It was then moved by a farmer to allow for better ploughing of the field and was subsequently lost to memory.

A stone lined grave (cist) containing a skull was discovered near the Lundin stones in 1844. The skull, was given to Prof of Anatomy at Edinburgh University, Sir William Turner, who reported it had a metal arrowhead imbedded within a fracture but this crumbled to rust when it was touched. The discovery of the ‘ancient sepulchre’ draws parallels with other standing stone sites in Fife where human remains were also found. 

Local folklore tells that the Lundin stones were memorials to Danish Chiefs who had been slain during a great battle here. However, these days the stones are witness to nothing more belligerent than golfing competitions as they present a magnificent feature on the second fairway of Lundin Links Ladies Golf Course.

The stone sitting south east, has a height of 4.2M with a slight northward incline. This one is heavily weathered, pitted with a large crack that has developed on its east side. The south stone is 4.6M in height and decidedly inclined southward. Lastly, the north stone is the tallest at 5.1M, having a slight incline westward. Bear in mind that in order for these stones to remain standing they will need be seated into the ground to equivalent lengths

I’ve come here many times with family or friends who’ve had an interest in Scotland’s ancient history and they’ve all been impressed with the magnitude of the Lundin Stones and the fact that they still remain after all this time. If you decide to visit, please be polite by asking at the Club House if it’s safe to walk to the stones as there may be golfers about to tee off. Be sure to also skirt the course on your way to and from the site. A blow to the head with a golf ball could mean your skull might be the next to leave here with a fracture!

Balfarg Henge & Balbirnie Stone Circle, Fife

Located on the outskirts of Glenrothes in Fife, Balfarg Henge is now incongruously surrounded by a modern housing estate. Encircled by hills, this was once a revered landscape and main centre of ritual, sacred to generations of prehistoric people. While there are only two of its original stones remaining and sadly, a rather underwhelming place to visit these days than other Neolithic monuments in Scotland, (such as Calanais in Lewis or Ring of Brogdar in Orkney) 4,000 years ago Balfarg Henge would have been equally as evocative.  The ceremonial, circular enclosure, measuring 60 metres across (known as a ‘henge’), was formed by a bank with an internal ditch and encompassed temples for the living and graves for the dead.  Evidence of ritual feasting, sacrifice, smashed pottery and human burial were found here and at the centre of the henge, lying level with the grass, is a massive stone slab which covers a stone cist, containing the remains of a teenage boy from that period.

The nearby Balbirnie Stone Circle was excavated then moved when the current main road was widened.  It originally had been only 300 metres from Balfarg Henge, in a much more prominent position with the circle facing the midsummer sun rising over Clatto Hill.  It had a hearth at its centre, perhaps for lighting up night-time ceremonies. Communities would have gathered here to celebrate seasonal festivals and to honour their ancestors. Balbirnie became a place of burial where the cremated bones of women and children were placed in stone cists, along with precious objects.

Neolithic peoples cleared woodland and introduced agriculture to Fife around 6,000 years ago.  They were also hunter-gatherers, moving from place to place throughout the year as seasons changed. The efforts made by these people to build shared sacred sites like Balfarg and Balbirnie affirms that their society was sophisticated and organised.

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