Tay – Scottish Adventures

I’d parked overnight in a layby at the east end of Loch Tay at Kenmore and took a swim in the morning sunshine alongside several other morning dippers. Slipping into the cool, clear water of the still loch was a refreshing way to wash away the remnants of sleep. Meanwhile, Millie danced around at the waters’ edge desperate for me to come out. She’s a paddler not a swimmer.

I’d brought my Children camping to Kenmore over the years so it evoked happy memories to be visiting again. There are lovely walks around this area and so Millie and I set off on a jaunt through the woods to take in the Eleanor Cross and onward towards Aberfeldy. The pathway starts by the bridge at the mouth of the Loch and meanders along the north side of the river for a while then heads up the hill through the woods. The Cross was commissioned in 1831 by Lord Breadalbane in tribute to his beloved wife Mary. At that time it would have had a view of the hills and down along the valley with beautiful vistas of the River & Loch Tay. In all these many years however the woodland has grown up high into beautiful mature trees with birdsong echoing through them.

Eleanor Cross is built on the site of an old summer house known as Maxwell’s House. It stands 30 feet tall with a 9 step octagonal base encircling it, a cruciform mid section and a square pinnacle top surmounted with a cross. Delightfully, a door on its south side opens to a spiral stairway. This leads to a small open-air arched gallery surrounding the structure. Climbing up the steps, it feels like a childhood adventure to reach the platform and look through the trees at height. Sadly the interior has been sprayed with graffiti: evidence of bored minds and idle hands.

A brass plaque acclaims – This Building is Dedicated to my Faithful Friend and Fellow-Labourer, MARY, COUNTESS OF BREADALBANE, whose maternal care has been extended to all around this place. anno domini, 1831.

I’ve been as yet unable to ascertain why this particular monument was named ‘Eleanor Cross’ so for the moment will surmise that the reason was purely a romantic gesture in keeping with Breadalbane’s status and the era. (The Victorians were fond of building ornamental ‘follies’ and they can be found throughout Scotland in beautiful rural settings.) NB: King Edward I of England had twelve Eleanor Crosses erected as markers built along the funeral route taken by his wife Queen Eleanor of Castile. They marked the nightly resting places of her coffin procession from Lincoln to Westminster Abbey in 1290.

Just a short scenic drive from Loch Tay, in the hamlet of Fortingall, resides Europe’s (and possibly the World’s) oldest living thing. It’s estimated that the roots of this tree weave back over 5,000 years. Under a veil of coniferous needles you can see the relic trunks of what was once a huge, ancient Yew Tree. In 1769 the tree had a girth of approximately 56ft (17m) but sadly as a result of rapacious souvenir hunters, large sections of the yew were ‘appropriated’. Although sitting within the grounds of Fortingall churchyard, a new enclosure which it now occupies, had to be built to stop the tree from being completely destroyed.

Before the arrival of Christianity, the Yew was known as the tree of eternity. At around 500 years old, when most trees have died, Yews start to grow again. This otherworldly power led early people to revere the Yew and the Fortingall Yew Tree may have marked a place of worship for them. Archaeological evidence indicates this area has been inhabited for more than 5,000 years and three groups of standing stones and numerous large, cupmarked stones from that timeline can be found nearby. As with many ‘pagan’ sites, when early Christians arrived at Fortingall in the 7th century, they built their new church next to the Yew.

Over subsequent centuries, Yew trees continued to be cultivated within the enclosed grounds of Churches throughout Britain because although the Yew is toxic to livestock, the wood from these trees was best for producing longbows.

Tag: Tay

The Eleanor Cross – Kenmore, Perthshire

The Fortingall Yew