On my first trip around Scotland’s North Coast in the van, the first lighthouse on my itinerary was here at Chanonry Point. It’s one of over 200 that are located around Scotland’s wild and sometimes unforgiving coastline. Operated and maintained by the Northern Lighthouse Board they warn ships of dangerous waters and provide safe passage.
Chanonry Lighthouse is situated on the Black Isle, south of Rosemarkie, where the Moray Firth narrows between Chanonry Point and Fort George. Standing only 13 meters high, this lighthouse was designed by Alan Stevenson (1807-1865), who was also the engineer responsible for the building of the Scotland’s tallest lighthouse in the Herbrides, Skerryvore Lighthouse, in 1844, where it marks an extensive rocky reef. The establishment of a lighthouse here at Chanonry Point was first proposed in 1834 but not approved by the Commissioners of Lighthouses until 1843. It cost £3,570 (quite a handsome amount at that time) and the light first shone out to sea on 15th May 1846.
This was originally a ‘one man station’, a remote, lonely and hard existence. The keeper was required to keep a night-time watch in the lightroom to ensure the light flashed correctly, while during the day, he was expected to clean, paint (if necessary) and keep the premises tidy. The light here was eventually automated in 1984 and the former keeper’s cottages and outbuildings were sold and are now privately owned. They certainly could do with a lick of paint now!
The Lighhouse Stevensons Legacy – for over a hundred and fifty years, Robert Stevenson and his descendants designed most of Scotland’s lighthouses. The Stevenson family constructed wonders of engineering which have withstood time and the harsh Scottish elements. It’s said that Robert Stevenson’s talented literary grandson, Robert Louis Stevenson, took inspiration for his books ‘Kidnapped’ and ‘Treasure Island’ from visits to remote lighthouses with his Father and Grandfather.
When your long-time buddy is a modern day Viking and you have some Viking blood flowing through your own veins, the best way to blow away the winter blues, of course, is by attending an ancient Viking festival. I’d listened to stories of Up Helly Aa as I was growing up and was excited to finally be going to this legendary event. Anne Lise arrived in Aberdeen from Oslo and we flew together, onward to Lerwick in Shetland, on an outstandingly beautiful day for a bucket list adventure.
We’d booked into Lerwick hostel and on arrival, were greeted enthusiastically by the Manager, who showed us to our communal accommodation. He was a mine of information, providing us with details of where we needed to be and when, to make the most of our experience. He also, very kindly, insisted on driving us into town where we could find a bite to eat. Within moments of having ordered some food and sitting at our table we were surrounded by curious locals, enquiring who we were, where we were from and inviting us to a week of celebratory Up Helly Aa parties. They probably were fascinated with our mad hats! Next stop, a crowded bar that was full to bursting with good-humoured, Shetlanders, drinking and taking turns in the band that played traditional Shetland music into the early hours. Our trip couldn’t have gotten off to a more enjoyable start. What absolutely lovely folk! Back at the hostel that night, we bunked up along side fellow festival goers, two of whom were somewhat more ‘mature’ ladies. The pair seemed to have boundless energy, had been out walking all day, gone out for dinner, enjoyed the local music scene and were last to bed…and not very quiet about it either.
Up Helly Aa day and by 9.30am we were at Alexander Warf, waiting to see the Guizer Jarl and his Squad march into position for an iconic photo opportunity with their hard-wrought, beautifully crafted galley. And what a handsome band of Vikings they were. The mood was jovial and everyone was filled with elation for the day ahead. When eventually the Squad marched off to attend their community events, Anne Lise and I wandered along the Esplanade to the Market Cross then into town to browse around Lerwick’s old, narrow streets and quaint little shops. With plenty of time to spare, we also decided on exploration of the shore area, seal watching and making a fuss over loveable Shetland ponies, all the way out to Clickmin Broch (a bronze age settlement dating back to circa 400BC). The weather was wild and windy, exhilarating as we walked, filling us with anticipation for the upcoming festival to celebrate the end of Yuletide in this Viking world.
Darkness fell, the wind howled and the rain lashed but regardless, by 7pm the streets surrounding King Harald Playpark were lined with throngs of locals and visitors alike, waiting in suspense for the torchlit procession to begin. A strong smell of paraffin from hundreds of flaming torches filled the air as Guizers from 46 other squads mustered into place. The Jarl Squad was ushered through the ranks, towing the Galley with the Guizer Jarl standing magnificently at the prow while a brass band blared renditions of the ‘Up Helly Aa Song’, the ‘Galley Song’ and ‘The Norseman’s Home’. The spectacle of hundreds of Guizers with their flaring torches parading the around the streets, all singing proudly, was an unforgettable sight. Eventually, the Galley was lead into the Playground to its final repose, the Guizers spiralled around until an ultimate rendition of ‘The Norseman’s Home’, when Guizer Jarl stepped down at the very last moment and was first to hurl his torch into the longboat. With complex manoeuvring, hundreds of torches arched their way into the Galley, both an achingly sad yet breath-taking moment in this fiery comital and dispatch to Valhall. The heat was intense no matter where we were standing, everyone waiting with baited breath for the mast and then the dragon figure-head to collapse into the inferno.
With the ceremony at an end, the crowds gradually dispersed to ready themselves for whichever of the Up Helly Aa parties they were attending while the members of each squad made final preparations for their performances for the evenings attendees. Anne Lise and I had pre-arranged tickets for a ceilidh at the community centre so were thrilled to spend the rest of this incredible day being entertained by the squads and asked to dance by affable Shetlanders, into the wee small hours….
Scottish Adventures - in a van 