Tag: travel

Tullibody Old Kirk & Maiden’s Grave Stone – Tullibody, Clackmannanshire

The roofless ruin of this Old Kirk in Tullibody, Clackmannanshire, is now a scheduled monument. It was founded in 1149, however, various sources note there were earlier churches on this site and it’s thought that there was a Kirk here from the end of the fourth century. This existing structure has been rebuilt a couple of times, first in the 16th century then again in 1760.

French troops removed the roof of the Kirk to build a bridge over the River Devon after Sir William Kirkcaldy of Grange destroyed the Tullibody Bridge to prevent them from retreating to Stirling at the end of 1560. Sir William was a Scottish Politician and Soldier who initially fought for the Scottish Reformation. He eventually vowed his allegiance to Mary Queen of Scots, became her champion during times of need and held Edinburgh Castle on her behalf from 1568 to 1573. Following the abdication of the Queen, the Marian Civil War ensued and Edinburgh Castle was eventually surrendered by the ‘Queens Men’ on May 28th 1573 when Kirkcaldy was taken prisoner and held at Holyroodhouse. Great efforts were made to save him from reprisal of his enemies, but they were all in vain. John Knox had prophesied that he would be hanged and so Sir William was taken and hanged at the Cross in Edinburgh on 3rd August 1573.

As it had become dilapidated, the Old Kirk was again renovated in 1760 with the bellcote being added in 1772, then latterly, the western windows and a south porch in the 1800’s. In 1904, St Serf’s Parish Church was built to the north of the Old Kirk which sadly thereafter, became disused.

There are many interesting grave stones and slabs to look at and ponder within the grounds of Tullibody Old Kirk but none more so than the ‘Maiden’s Stone’ and the story of forbidden love and tragedy woven around it.

The ‘Stone’ is an ancient sarcophagus, topped with what remains of a coping stone lid. It’s said that this is was the coffin of Martha Wishart, the maid of Myretoun. In 1450, Martha, a beautiful maiden and only daughter of wealthy landowner, the Laird of Myretoun, fell prey to the young and very handsome local priest, Peter Beaton. He seduced her while she fell in love with him. On hearing the news she was pregnant, Beaton abandoned her to her shame. The unscrupulous and ambitious priest had toyed with her heart for access to her family connections. His sights were on rising through the ranks of the community and the church. Martha kept her pregnancy secret from those outside the family, languishing and dying of a broken heart before her child was born. On her deathbed, she requested her parents place her grave by the door of the Kirk so each time the priest entered he would be required to walk past her. Beaton blocked up the Kirk’s north door following Martha’s internment, establishing a new entryway through a south door in order to avoid passing her grave. Soon, the locals knew the truth and Beaton was shunned by the community he’d contrived to become such a lofty member off. The Abbot of Cambuskenneth heard of Beaton’s transgressions and it’s said that the news of his errant behaviour reached as far as the Vatican. One day however, Beaton simply disappeared, a story circulating that he had wandered off, a madman. Or, had he instead met vengeance in the form of a grieving Father?

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Tomb of Robert Munro Ferguson – Kirkcaldy, Fife

In an overgrown tangle of trees on a hill in the Raith Estate, on the outskirts of Kirkcaldy, there’s a long forgotten tomb. This is a place only visited by the occasional dog walker and teenagers searching for a bit of woodland adventure. Millie didn’t care that it took a while to find the location and what a magnificent resting place this would have been, once upon a time, when it overlooked Raith Lake and the surrounding rolling hills.

This is the Tomb of Lieutenant Robert Munro Ferguson, an officer of the 79th Regiment of Foot who became Colonel of his Regiment, commanding from 1835 to 1841. He was born on 20th August 1802, grew up in Muirton in Fife then went on to study in Edinburgh. Robert was the son of Ronald Craufurd Ferguson (also Colonel of the 79th from 1821 to 1841) and was appointed commanding officer with the rank of lieutenant-colonel on 13 March 1835, thus commanding in the regiment under his Father. The regiment had been serving in Canada but returned to Scotland in 1836.

On retiring from the army, Robert got into politics and became Liberal MP for Kirkcaldy Burghs from 1841 to 1862. He wholeheartedly supported the Liberal agenda, wanted electoral reform, male suffrage and the secret ballot, supported triennial fixed parliaments, voted for revision of Corn Laws and income tax. He also voted for universal, free schooling. Robert was re-elected unopposed at 4 consecutive general elections.

On 17th May 1859 he married Emma Elizabeth Mandeville at Westminster in London and they went on to have six children together: Ronald Craufurd, Alice Edwina, Emma Valentine, Hector, Robert Harry & Edith Isabel. In 1864 Robert inherited the baronies of Novar in Ross and Muirton on condition of adding ‘Munro’ to his surname. He died on 28 November 1868 and was laid to rest here.

The slab from the top of his tomb now lies unceremoniously, toppled to one side and the inscription around its rim reads: Robert Munro Ferguson of Raith & Novar. Lieutenant Colonel of the 79th Highlanders. Born 20th Aug 1802, Died 27th November 1868, Succourer Of Many.

His daughter, Emma Valentine, also held her father’s liberal views, was in favour of women’s suffrage and is known to have created a leaflet entitled ‘Union of Practical Suffragists within the the Women’s Liberal Federation’. In 1890 she became engaged to Scottish born politician, Richard Burdon, Viscount Haldane, but for reasons I haven’t been able to ascertain, she broke off the engagement. Sadly, Emma died at the age of 34 years and was laid to rest here alongside her Father. The beautifully intricate, now broken cross lying in pieces on the slope was in memoriam of her as the base bears her name. The inscription around her grave is still legible and says: Valentine. Born Feb 14 1863. Died Sep 14 1897. Until The Day Dawn.

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Witches’ Stone – Spott, East Lothian

On my first trip away in the van, I drove by here as I’d heard about this stone. Spott is a tiny village only two miles from Dunbar and infamous as the place where the last witch trials and executions were held during the early 18th century. The stone here is a memorial to the burning of a witch in the South of Scotland, Marion Lillie, the Ringwoody Witch. Under the Birley Tree which stood nearby, the local Birley Court was held and sentenced Marion to death. This was in fact just a sham court set up by local Kirk Elders to deal with ‘problematic’ people within their farming community.

Marion had previously been accused of bewitching in 1698 but was never convicted however in 1704 she appeared before the court again, accused of so frightening a pregnant woman that she had a miscarriage. This time Marion was found guilty and in 1705, she was taken to the top of Spott Loan and burned to death as a witch. According to the Spott Kirk Session minutes of the time, ‘Many witches were burnt on Spott Loan’, on 11 February, 1705, un-named but apparently 13 of them in all, the size of a witches coven. These could well have been Marion’s accusers who she perhaps named while being ‘coerced’ during her trial.

This Witches Stone and the plaque which sits by it, now honours Marion Lillie and all those others who lost their lives during the Witch Hunt madness of the 17th & 18th centuries.

The plaque bears a dedication by local poet, Ruth Gilchrist, and reads: ‘This stone has become a place to commemorate those local people who were once persecuted as witches. We cannot undo the hurt but we can let their souls go free.’

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STILL – Loch Earn, Perthshire

Made from over 800 hand-cut pieces of marine grade mirrored stainless steel, STILL was created by artist, Rob Mulholland. This solitary figure of the ‘mirror man’ as he is also known, stands partially submerged at the St Fillans end of the Loch. At 2.75m / 9ft tall, STILL is witness to the ever changing environment of this area, reflecting the surrounding landscape, sky and water.

Eight years since its removal in 2017, this enigmatic statue has returned to Loch Earn. The community here initiated a fundraising campaign to purchase, restore and reinstate this now beloved artwork. It certainly attracts lots of sightseers. I used to stop by with visitors to see this glimmering man of the Loch and he’s once again back on my list of points of interest.

The artist has said – “The figure is purposefully passive, reflecting the awe and power of nature, and yet can be interpreted as standing stoically – symbolising the human struggle to interact with nature”

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Dunfallandy Stone – Pitlochry, Perthshire

I’d heard about this magnificent stone so finally took the time to stop off to search for it while heading to the Cairngorms. Once you get into Pitlochry it’s actually quite well signposted however there isn’t really much parking nearby so I left the van in town and Millie and I enjoyed a stroll (for the most part) out past the caravan park and along the road to get there. It’s quite a narrow road without pavement and the drivers of a couple of Range Rovers that passed me seemed to think they were in a formula 1 race so Millie and I were forced into the ditch a couple of times. Do take care.

The Dunfallandy Stone is an elaborately carved Class II Pictish stone which is more than 1200 years old. To protect it from the elements, it has been enclosed in a shelter but disappointingly, reflections on the glass make it difficult to see and photograph. Non reflective glass would certainly have been a better option here.

Reminiscent of intricately decorated Pictish jewellery, this cross-slab once marked a place of prayer and is set in its original location, prominently on a mound known to have been topped by a chapel, where it would have been seen by all that passed by. The relief carvings show the sophistication of Pictish culture, mixing influences from across the British Isles and Europe with local traditions and belief. Typically, the body of the Cross is decorated with the familiar intricate Pictish knotwork.

It’s thought that stones such as this one were once coloured, using mineral pigments such as yellow ochre, red lead and green verdigris, emulating the style of metalwork and religious manuscripts of the time. The images on the front depict Pictish monsters (considered agents of God’s wrath), a stag, Jonah being swallowed by a whale and angels. On the reverse side, depictions are of enthroned bishops or saints facing each other, a rider representing perhaps the patron who commissioned the stone then at the bottom are Iron-working tools (tongs, hammer, crucible). There are also several distinctively Pictish symbols on the reverse here, the Pictish monster, double disk and the crescent with v-rod however their true meaning is now lost to us.

Dunfallandy Stone now shares the mound with burial enclosures surrounded by railings. One of these is the site of the impressive tomb of Lieutenant-General Archibald Fergusson of Dunfallandy who died in 1834. This, I assume would be why the location was referred to as Mausoleum Mound from the 1860’s.

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Tarbat Ness Lighthouse (Taigh-solais Rubha an Tairbeirt)-Portmahomack,Highland

Driving ever farther northward on my trip around Scotland, I reached the north west tip of Tarbat Ness peninsula, just outside the fishing village of Portmahomack on the east coast and parked for the night under the watch of this stunning lighthouse.

Tarbat Ness Lighthouse stands 41 meters high and is Scotland’s second tallest land-based lighthouse. It was designed by famous Scottish engineer, Robert Stevenson and was first exhibited on 26 January 1830. Its two red bands were added in 1915 to make it easily distinguishable from other lighthouses as a day marker.

A principal lightkeeper, an assistant and their families lived here at Tarbat Ness until is was automated in 1985. The Keeper and Assistant would take shifts in keeping watch in the lightroom, ensuring the light flashed correctly to character. During the day they’d be busily engaged in cleaning, keeping everything in order and painting when necessary. After automisation the cottages and outhouses were sold into private ownership.

The light is automatically operated when daylight falls and rises between set levels when a sensor switches the light on or off. The light is monitored 24 hours a day remotely and technicians visit annually to service the light and carry out maintenance.

The Light flashes white, 4 times every 30 seconds and has a range of 24 nautical miles. The tower has an elevation of 53 metres (174 ft) and 203 steps to the top.

Navigating Scotland’s more than 6000 mile shoreline has always been a hazardous undertaking and it’s one of the most beautiful but treacherous coasts in Europe. In 1786 a Commission was set up to build, initially, four lighthouses. Now known as the Northern Lighthouse Board, it is responsible for over 200 lighthouses.

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Chanonry Point Lighthouse (Rubha na Cananaich) – Black Isle

On my first trip around Scotland’s North Coast in the van, the first lighthouse on my itinerary was here at Chanonry Point. It’s one of over 200 that are located around Scotland’s wild and sometimes unforgiving coastline. Operated and maintained by the Northern Lighthouse Board they warn ships of dangerous waters and provide safe passage.

Chanonry Lighthouse is situated on the Black Isle, south of Rosemarkie, where the Moray Firth narrows between Chanonry Point and Fort George. Standing only 13 meters high, this lighthouse was designed by Alan Stevenson (1807-1865), who was also the engineer responsible for the building of the Scotland’s tallest lighthouse in the Herbrides, Skerryvore Lighthouse, in 1844, where it marks an extensive rocky reef. The establishment of a lighthouse here at Chanonry Point was first proposed in 1834 but not approved by the Commissioners of Lighthouses until 1843. It cost £3,570 (quite a handsome amount at that time) and the light first shone out to sea on 15th May 1846.

This was originally a ‘one man station’, a remote, lonely and hard existence. The keeper was required to keep a night-time watch in the lightroom to ensure the light flashed correctly, while during the day, he was expected to clean, paint (if necessary) and keep the premises tidy. The light here was eventually automated in 1984 and the former keeper’s cottages and outbuildings were sold and are now privately owned. They certainly could do with a lick of paint now!

The Lighhouse Stevensons Legacy – for over a hundred and fifty years, Robert Stevenson and his descendants designed most of Scotland’s lighthouses. The Stevenson family constructed wonders of engineering which have withstood time and the harsh Scottish elements. It’s said that Robert Stevenson’s talented literary grandson, Robert Louis Stevenson, took inspiration for his books ‘Kidnapped’ and ‘Treasure Island’ from visits to remote lighthouses with his Father and Grandfather.

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The Eleanor Cross – Kenmore, Perthshire

I’d parked overnight in a layby at the east end of Loch Tay at Kenmore and took a swim in the morning sunshine alongside several other morning dippers. Slipping into the cool, clear water of the still loch was a refreshing way to wash away the remnants of sleep. Meanwhile, Millie danced around at the waters’ edge desperate for me to come out. She’s a paddler not a swimmer.

I’d brought my Children camping to Kenmore over the years so it evoked happy memories to be visiting again. There are lovely walks around this area and so Millie and I set off on a jaunt through the woods to take in the Eleanor Cross and onward towards Aberfeldy. The pathway starts by the bridge at the mouth of the Loch and meanders along the north side of the river for a while then heads up the hill through the woods. The Cross was commissioned in 1831 by Lord Breadalbane in tribute to his beloved wife Mary. At that time it would have had a view of the hills and down along the valley with beautiful vistas of the River & Loch Tay. In all these many years however the woodland has grown up high into beautiful mature trees with birdsong echoing through them.

Eleanor Cross is built on the site of an old summer house known as Maxwell’s House. It stands 30 feet tall with a 9 step octagonal base encircling it, a cruciform mid section and a square pinnacle top surmounted with a cross. Delightfully, a door on its south side opens to a spiral stairway. This leads to a small open-air arched gallery surrounding the structure. Climbing up the steps, it feels like a childhood adventure to reach the platform and look through the trees at height. Sadly the interior has been sprayed with graffiti: evidence of bored minds and idle hands.

A brass plaque acclaims – This Building is Dedicated to my Faithful Friend and Fellow-Labourer, MARY, COUNTESS OF BREADALBANE, whose maternal care has been extended to all around this place. anno domini, 1831.

I’ve been as yet unable to ascertain why this particular monument was named ‘Eleanor Cross’ so for the moment will surmise that the reason was purely a romantic gesture in keeping with Breadalbane’s status and the era. (The Victorians were fond of building ornamental ‘follies’ and they can be found throughout Scotland in beautiful rural settings.) NB: King Edward I of England had twelve Eleanor Crosses erected as markers built along the funeral route taken by his wife Queen Eleanor of Castile. They marked the nightly resting places of her coffin procession from Lincoln to Westminster Abbey in 1290.

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St Bride’s Kirk – Old Blair by Blair Atholl

Reaching this 16th century Kirk takes in a lovely walk northward past Blair Castle, through ancient and varied woodland, including exotic Cedar and Sequoia trees, to a clearing on a mound. The Kirk lies where once was the village of Old Blair through which the old Perth to Inverness road used to run. The fabric of this existing structure dates back to around 1560 however its origins are rooted in Celtic times, standing on a raised circular mound, built over earlier churches possibly dating as far back as the dark ages.

Surviving records show that in 1275 when Scottish Churches were required to finance the crusades, St Brides made payments of 32 shillings which was a significant amount in those times. In 1475 Angus Og, the son of John MacDonald II, Lord of the Isles, attacked Blair Castle. The Earl and Countess of Atholl took refuge in the Kirk but were taken prisoner by Angus who sacked and damaged the building. While sailing back to Islay, Angus’ ship was nearly lost in a violent storm and this was interpreted as retribution for what he’d done to the Kirk. It’s told that he immediately returned to Blair Atholl where he paid for repairs to St Bride’s to try to make amends with God for his actions.

The Coat of Arms of the 4th Earl of Atholl and his 2nd wife were mounted on the outside of the Kirk in 1579.

On 27 July 1689, John Graham of Claverhouse 1st Viscount Dundee (known as ‘Bonnie Dundee’) led his Jacobean army against General Hugh McKay’s Government forces at the Battle of Killiecrankie. Victory was on the the Jacobites side that day, however, amongst the many casualties Dundee himself was mortally wounded. Three days after his death his body was carried here to St Bride’s where he was buried in the vault beneath the South Aisle Mausoleum. Sadly, the vault was broken into in the 1790’s and Dundee’s armour was looted and sold as scrap. The breastplate is the only item remaining and is now on display in Blair Castle.

In 1824, the village of Blair Atholl built its own Church so St Bride’s gradually fell into disrepair. The 6th Duke of Atholl was buried here in 1864 then also his wife Countess Anne in 1897. The remains of other family members were reinterred to the West of the Kirk from and earlier family cemetery in 1954.

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Scotland’s Last Fatal Duel – Kirkcaldy, Fife

It was a blow from an umbrella on a rainy day on Kirkcaldy High Street which triggered the duel. George Morgan, the hot-headed agent of the Bank of Scotland and retired Lieutenant from the 77th Regiment of Foot, struck David Landale, a linen merchant, with his umbrella. It was the final insult in an escalating argument which led to Pistols at Dawn and the death of one of them.

Landale was angered that Morgan’s gossiping had damaged his business reputation. They had quarrelled over a bank loan, and the banker had spread rumours about the merchant’s creditworthiness. In response, Landale took his business elsewhere and wrote a stiff letter of complaint to the Bank of Scotland headquarters in Edinburgh. This enraged Morgan who was seething with anger and baying for revenge and knew if he struck Landale a duel would ensue. The pair crossed paths on Kirkcaldy High Street where Morgan proceeded to strike Landale about the head with his umbrella , shouting “Take that, sir. By God, sir, you shall more of this yet!” Landale fled the attack shouting “You are a coward, sir, a poor, silly coward.”

Duelling was a remnant from the age of chivalry, it was about honour and a public assault by one gentleman on another had left Landale with no alternative. He wrote to Morgan, challenging him to a duel “I must request that you will meet me tomorrow morning at seven o’clock with pistols and give me the satisfaction which as a gentleman I am entitled to.” Landale however was a novice shot, had to quickly purchase pistols, arrange for a ‘second’, and put his affairs in order.

Early on the morning of 23rd August 1826 the pair met at Cardenbarns Farm, south of Cardenden, where Morgan refused the opportunity to apologise for his public assault on Landale. He was confident that with his military prowess he would emerge from this incident the victor. The gentlemanly code of the time to regulate such confrontations, defined where the combatants should stand, what they should wear, and how and when they should fire. The seconds acting for Landale and Morgan agreed the terms of the duel and the pair stood 12 paces apart. On command, they fired simultaneously.

Morgan staggered and slumped to the ground, blood pouring from his mouth. He was fatally wounded. Lansdale, the novice, had fired straight and true at his target then immediately fled the scene to the Lake District where he kept a low profile for a time. He wrote to the legal authorities, promising to appear at his trial and one month after the duel he stood on trial for murder in Perth. Fortunately, he was acquitted “with character unsullied”.

Ironically 25 years later, the Landale and Morgan families were reconciled when David Landale’s daughter married George Morgan’s nephew.

David Landale had hurriedly purchased this pair of pistols from John Thomson of Edinburgh the day before the duel. They came highly recommended as they has killed a man in a duel two years previously. These beautiful but deadly weapons have walnut stocks, steel barrels with decorative mounts and are still together with their original gun powder flask and lead bullets. The pistols can be seen on display at Kirkcaldy Museum.

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